Interwoven outlines how the diverse history of textiles has been intertwined with human innovation from prehistoric twining to the invention of the binary code, through to today’s new material discoveries and urgent quest for sustainability. By investigating the past and present of textiles, and narrating their cross-cultural roles, meanings and influences, Interwoven illustrates how textiles have been used to tell human stories throughout the ages.
The book introduces a new pedagogical method for woven textile design studies, inviting the reader to take a seat at the looms to weave their own stories. Detailed instructions for creating textiles, ranging from fibres and yarns to basic weaves, multi-layered constructions and digital jacquard design, are interspersed by emotionally rich, tactile textile stories by Aalto ARTS design students. The way this book interweaves technical knowledge, artistic expression and storytelling makes it a unique guide on the path to mastering textile design.
1. Interwoven – On Textiles and Humans
1.1 Fibres – The Building Blocks
1.2 Structures – Interlaced, Intertwined, Intermeshed
1.3 Looms and Other Tools
1.4 Tools, Practice and Materiality
1.5 Weaving Human Stories
2. To the Looms – Weaving and Experimenting
I Cotton Twine Warp (Cotton)
2.1 Simple, Bold and Beautiful
II End and End Fancy Yarn Warp (Viscose Polyester + Viscose Polyamide)
2.2 End and End Fancy
III Striped Monofilament and Spiral Yarn Warp (Polyamide)
2.3 Tension, Texture and Transparency
IV End and End Spun Yarn Warp (Wool + Cotton)
2.4 Layers, Pleats and Blocks
V Paper Yarn Warp (Paper)
2.5 Sheer, Parched and Perforated
VI Tape Yarn Warp (Viscose Polyamide)
2.6 Undulating Pick
VII Striped Wool and Line Linen Yarn (Linen + Wool)
2.7 Checks, Stripes and Camouflage Twill
VIII Worsted Wool Yarn Warp (Wool)
2.8 Going 3D
IX Wool Silk Blend Yarn and Cotton Yarn Warp (Wool Silk + Cotton)
2.9 Quilted Layers
X Silk Yarn Warp (Silk)
2.10 Smooth and Silky Freestyling to Patterns
2.11 Adding Colour
3. Jacquards – Boosting the Patterns by Maija Fagerlund
3.1 Pattern Design for Jacquard Fabrics
3.2 Structures in Jacquard Fabrics
3.3 From Sampling to Weaving on Industrial Looms
4. Finished Fabrics – into Fashion, Interiors and Beyond
4.1 Searching for the Final Hand and Look by Anna-Mari Leppisaari
4.2 The Hybrid Practice of Combining Textile and Fashion Design by Anna-Mari Leppisaari
4.3 Hybrid Explorations – Bringing Together Wood and Textile
4.4 Creative Textile Design for the Industry
4.5 Multidisciplinary Futures
List of Warps from Chapter 2.
To the Looms
Endnotes
Index
Featured Student Works from Aalto University
Further Reading
Maarit Salolainen is Professor of Textile Design at Aalto University, Finland, and Head of the MA Major in Fashion and Textile Design. She is a textile expert and creative director with extensive international experience across the textile industry, passionate about bringing textile knowledge to interdisciplinary platforms. At Aalto University, Professor Salolainen has developed higher education studies in textile design, focusing on renewing studio pedagogy and linking textile studies to fashion education and other design disciplines. As a creative director within the global textile manufacturing industry, she has led the design and development of fabrics and interior textile collections for international textile editors and brands, from research and initial concept through technical and creative development to final quality decisions and colour coordination.
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